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Care Guide


Appearance and General Information


Pine Furniture


Our Pine collections are made from laminated Scandinavian Redwood and as with all woods it will have its own imperfections. All imperfections are natural features, such as slightly different shading between the laminates, as each laminate could come from a different part of the tree, cracked knots and variations in grain. Every piece is handmade, so no two items will ever look identical.

Each piece of furniture is quality controlled at different stages of production and then packed to avoid any possible damage during delivery. So the furniture should arrive to you in pristine condition. Some furniture may have fixtures and fitting packed loose inside the packaging.


Oak Furniture


Our Oak ranges are made from North American White Oak. As with all woods, it will have its own Care Guide, imperfections such as cracked knots, slightly different shading of the wood, small cracks and variations in the grain. Every piece is handmade, so no two items will ever look identical.


All items are supplied with packaging to avoid any damages during delivery. Some items are supplied with fittings, which will be packed loose in a bag inside the box.


With all furniture

1. It is best to avoid placing your furniture near to heat sources such as radiators. Temperature needs to be controlled as the furniture will expand and contract in extreme temperatures.

2. Added moisture may cause the panels in your furniture to move slightly, so adequate ventilation should be provided to minimise this.

3. The light will, over a period of time, slightly alter the colour of your furniture; this is just part of the ageing process.

4. Always use coasters and place mats when placing hot drinks and food onto your furniture.

5. Never use chemicals such as bleach, or any abrasive materials to clean the furniture. Never use all-purpose cleaning sprays unless your furniture has a plastic coating, such as the kind used on kitchen tables and children's furniture.

6. Try not to leave your furniture in direct sunlight, this could dry out the wood and lead to fading.

7. Some items of furniture are very heavy and awkward to lift. We recommend that you have 2 people to lift these items such as tables, chests and robes. Do not drag the units as this will lead to damages.


Care and Maintenance


Always try a test patch first. If you are unsure as to whether the item you are cleaning is suitable for our instructions, take professional cleaning advice first.


Painted furniture is the easier to clean out of solid wood furniture. Every week, dust or wipe clean with a cloth lightly dampened with water or a microfibre cloth. Make sure you don’t leave any water spots on the surface as this could leave permanent marks when dried.

If your painted furniture has chips, nicks or scratches on it, you may wish to repair it. Carefully sand back around the chip, making sure not to damage the surrounding areas and to get rid of any other loose flakes of paint. You will need to match the paint, as best you can, the manufacture may be able to supply a small repair kit of paint for his and repaint the area.



Lacquered furniture is finished with a stain and then a lacquer topcoat is applied giving the furniture a glossy finish. The lacquer seals the wood, without stopping it breathing as it only covers the outer facing surface of the wood. It offers some protection from liquid, hot cups & plates but we would still strongly advise that mats and coasters are used and spills are cleaned off as quickly as possible with a dry cloth. Constant water contact will wear down the lacquer, causing dull areas. Lacquered furniture can be wiped down with a lightly damp cloth if it gets dirty but should be dried off afterwards. It can be dusted with a soft cloth and polished using a little furniture polish.

Lacquered furniture is a bit harder to repair than waxed furniture, however, it is possible. Using wax crayons by rubbing over the damage can fill in and repair dents or chips in the lacquer, the wax crayons are available in good DIY stores and you should try and get the best colour match possible. If, however, the lacquer has started to peel or split then complete sanding down is required.



Waxed Furniture is finished in the same way as lacquered however a wax is applied as the topcoat instead of a lacquer. Wax does not offer the same protection as lacquer, the wood is not sealed and can take on elements from its surrounding area, such as smoke from an open fire. Damage will occur if placing hot cups or plates on the surface if mats and coasters are not used. Spills will absorb into the wood so spillages must be cleaned off as quickly as possible to reduce the risk of damage. You should dust your furniture regularly with a dry, soft cloth.

NEVER wipe wax furniture with a damp cloth as this may remove the wax coating.

Waxed furniture needs to be waxed periodically depending on the wear and use it receives. A top on a chest of drawers will have regular use so would benefit from a monthly wax. A dining table with daily use would benefit from a wax twice a month, however, you would only need to wax the tops so it’s not as labour intensive as you may think. It is advised to wax the whole unit every six to twelve months. By waxing your furniture regularly, it hydrates and keeps the colour sharp. If you don’t wax your furniture it would fade and possibly start to split in places.

If damage occurs waxed furniture can be easily restored. Using a very fine grade wire wool or sandpaper, you can rub the furniture down, working with the grain. Once you are happy the mark has been removed, you can re-wax the area with ideally an exact match or a colour very close.